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Hello gurus! Well, I jumped into the old P6 estate today for a trip to the tip - and trod in a yucky little puddle of brake/clutch fluid. It’s leaking down the brake pedal from the master cylinder. (The reservoir is about one-third down so it’s a slowish leak.) I’m sure I replaced it like, no...

The differential is a John Wearing high ratio diff for a 110, although I’m sure it fits some other models? It is just about brand new; I only used it for a few miles but it has been sat in a dusty garage for a while and will need a clean. It is also, strangely, missing a filler hole in the case...

The tailgate is no longer available.

It is. My Grandad, a through and through Black Country man, referred to the tool as a Brummagem Screwdriver.

I’ve done this mod. As has been said you need to widen the hole for the cage by a couple of millimetres (I just used a file) and I used a universal adjusting tool to press out the centre of the cover at the back by again a couple of millimetres. (A better adjustment might have been to cut a...

It was always manual, so thank you again. I will have a look. Need to acquaint myself with what a bellcrank is!

Thank you Harvey. Converted to SD1 gearbox - does that make a difference?

If it isn’t one thing, it’s another...having sorted the brakes, the clutch is now sulking. I can press it down well enough, and change gear, but the pedal is reluctant to return and generally stops halfway up, requiring me to stick my foot under it to lift it up to stop the clutch plate just...

Thank you Colin. I assume you mean the flexible pipes to the wheel hubs?

It looks good from a distance! I solved the flickering brake warning light problem today with a new cork float in the reservoir. Quite a nice Medoc, actually... Handbrake not up to much, and I’m still trying to find where the trapped air is in the brake system. I’ve bled the brakes to the...

A quick pic. It will never win any prizes at a show but it's been my car for well over 20 years, and I'm just so pleased to have it back on the road, despite its issues. I've kept the 2200SC badges in memory of my first P6, a 2200SC automatic which was my daily driver for many years, when it...

Just a quick note to thank the members of this forum who have generously given of their time and advice to help me get my car back on the road. Yesterday, with trepidation, I reversed my old car off the drive and on to the actual public highway, and took it for a spin. It worked! I even got...

That’s brilliant, thank you! My goodness, and we think modern technology is complicated...

Thank you all. I guessed it was a complicated little piece of electrikery. It’s a pain on a drizzly day to keep switching the wipers on and off and it performing its daft little dance each time. I need to get hold of some techy stuff on how it actually works, so that I can maybe bypass it.

Demetris, you were uncannily prescient. That was indeed the precise problem. A before and after shot below. The second photo shows the washer the right way round. Such an easy thing to get wrong! (for hamfisted amateurs like me, anyway).

Thank you Harvey. The finger of blame does seem to point at the idiot who fitted the master cylinder. In my defence, it didn’t seem possible to fit it wrongly - but I have previous for finding imaginative ways to cock it up. I’ll remove it tomorrow to see if I can recognise what I did wrong.

Yes. Releasing fluid from the pipe that connects the servo with the master cylinder releases the brakes. But so too does bleeding fluid from the pipe that connects the servo with the brake light switch.

I’ve tried lowering it. No difference.

I meant when the pedal is released. I assume that the lower it is screwed into the trunnion, the more its spring is inclined to pull the connecting rod back? But if that rearward travel isn’t quite far enough...?

It does feel like the master cylinder is pressurising the system even when the pedal is high. I’ll take it off tomorrow and see what I can see. Fitting something the wrong way round wouldn’t be a first for me.

The pedal does go down when I turn the engine on.

Releasing fluid from the pipe that connects the servo with the brake light switch achieves the same result.

What schoolboy error have I made, fitting the master cylinder, I wonder. I’ve tried various pedal heights, to no avail.

When I let a little fluid out of the pipe that connects the servo with the master cylinder, the brakes release. Pressing the pedal (engine off) and they lock on again.

I’ve bled them to death! Seems unlikely all four pistons would stick on simultaneously. And yesterday the brakes were releasing if I relieved pressure at the servo. I’m wondering if it’s possible a brake light switch can act as a non-return valve?