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I use 95 octan fuel. Don't know if it would make a difference with 99....I will try. Why some cars work ok and why in same configuration don't.....

Despite the fact I have totally rebuilt my fuel pump, the problem I had before still persists. The car runs perfectly until I stop it for about 10 to 15 minutes. When I want to restart the engine (still hot) it does not run correctly for 5 to 10 minutes (see my post 21 August).... I have to...

I have received and fitted my fuel pressure regulator in line, just after the fuel pump and before the filter and have tried the car about 10 kms. The carbs don't overflow now. I will try again for a longer distance, but it seems to be ok. By the way, does anybody know if it makes a big...

I previously had a lot of trouble with my fuel tank that was full of "muck". The fuel was so bad that the valves stiked into their guides. I could not clean the tank correctly so I gave it to some people for repair and they cut it in 2, sandblasted it and rewelded. So now, the fuel tank is...

Yes the needles and seats are new (vitton WZX1101A) and the floats are perfectly adjusted (about 1mm below the level of carb). I have dismantled the carbs again and rechecked both carbs. I am now waiting for a fuel pressure regulator. I also don't understand what happens. I have another Rover...

I don't think that there is a problem with floats, they are both new, but it may be a problem with the return pipe. I have tried to push compressed air (nothing happened when I blew in the pipe) and with only little fuel in the tank I could hardly hear some air bubbles in the tank. When I...

First of all, thanks to everybody for your helpful comments. Last week, it was very hot in Switzerland and my P6 stopped before arriving to the top of a mountain. The fuel couldn't arrive to the carburettors. Many times before that day , when I stopped the car for about 15 minutes, it was...

I have just rebuilt the fuel pump on my 3500 P6 Automatic, and it works well but the pressure is very high (new valves as well) and the carbs overflow quickly. The return pipe is not blocked and join the reserve fuel pipe in the gauge. The pressure in the return pipe is higher than the...

Hard job, but if it can save my 2nd gearbox, I will do it.... I have to find the correct oil now. Thank you very much. jb

Thank you everybody. I know what I have to do now.. I also added about 1 litre of same oil in my second Rover P6 that has been stored for 30 years. The gearbox works very well now (I only made 30 kilometers...) but I know what I have to do now. I will drain the box and put some ATF...

:hmm:... yes, that' s what I read in the Forum, but too late....

Would it be possible that the cause of the problem comes from a wrong type of oil ? I used ATF Universal, Dexron III, Ford MERCON oil....

I have to buy some repair kits first. I don't know if it is easy or not.

You are very helpful Harvey, thank you very much. I will have a look asap at these parts and will let you know what I will have found out.

Thank you Harvey for your quick reply. I know it is a retrograde step and maybe not a very good idea to do this. What do you mean by "Servo problem" ? Can I see something or check sth if I remove the sump ? Many thanks again for your help ! jb

My P6 gearbox (BW65) has to be repaired now. Last year, I only had 1st and 3rd gear and now the reverse position is out of order, my car refuses to move back. I have a second hand BW 35 from an earlier P6 I dismantled 20 years ago and I don't know if it is a good idea and easy to swap my 65...

My 827 is capricious and sometimes (more than this) the windows can't be opened or closed. At the same time electric mirrors and seat adjustment do not work. After 5 minutes or if I switch off the engine and start again, everything works correctly for a short period of time. All the fuses are...

The box has an aluminium plate BORG WARNER 65 serial number 013 6185

I have just tried what you said and this is what I have seen. - From a standstill in position "1" , the car moves quickly and at 30 miles / hour, about 3000 rpm, with engine braking (no freewheel) - From a standstill in position "2", the car moves quickly and at 30 miles / hour, about 3000...

Well, I have checked and top up the level to the Cold level and tried the car again , but it has not changed anything. However, I was very careful when I drove my Rover and I think that..... I have no second gear at all. When I drive in L1 the gearbox works well and I have a normal braking...

Thank you very much, I am going to add a little bit of ATF and will let you know.

I have checked my fluid again, but I am not sure about the level. On my gauge there is only one mark "COLD" and nothing else. Should I check the level just after running the engine from cold or should I wait a few minutes before checking.

Thank you very much. I will try again today as you say and will let you know.

On "P" position, idle running, looking at the gauge.

There is a delayed engagement of drive when selecting "D" from 2nd to 3rd gear, but I haven't noticed any delayed engagement when selecting "R". The fluid level is correct.