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The top one has never been seen on NADA Rover. We’re not MGs! The bottom is closer to the real item but still not right. The real items are very rare now. Yours Vern

Well, they were kind of cork. Two thin layers of cork laminated on either side of an aluminum foil, then the lot coated with some kind of rubber coating. The factory gluing the gasket on technically was only for the very early solid cork gasket, but I found the laminated gasket tended to slip...

The gasket should be glued to the cam cover, otherwise they slip out over time. I used to use 3M supertrim adhesive, but then I moved to a silicone rubber gasket and started using RTV (silicone). Yours Vern

Absent on the P6 though. Yours Vern

That’s out of maybe a dozen cars I’ve seen over the years. Yours Vern

A bit shy of 1/8” call it 3/32”. However, I’ve only seen a couple of blue patch cars with the stripe. Mine doesn’t have it. Yours Vern

If you have the Rover ball joint tool the job is not bad at all, but most other ball joint tools don't fit in the space which is what leads to the reputation. Yours Vern

"I have tried starting from a setting where there is feeler gauge space between the screw and the pad all the way through to 3 full turns in on the screws with no change in choke idle speed.? thanks much for all your help." That’s quite a large adjustment to the mixture. If the engine showed no...

The screw you are asking about is the mixture screw (i.e. jet adjustment). Fast idle is the screw on the left in this pic. Yours Vern

Not a common problem but I have seen leaks there before. My guess is the solder joint cracked at some point, and is now contaminated with coolant so trying to resolder the joint fails. The solution is probably to take the rad to a rad shop and have the top tank at least removed, cleaned up and...

I was under the impression that the late model cars all had the steel tip. But being here in Canada I have no direct experience with any of the series 2 cars. And Kees picture proves that the pinned style with a plastic type was used on at least some of those cars. Yours Vern

The splines are for gripping, so that type will work on the later cars but I’m not sure if you could adjust it in the car, the gearchange extension plate might get in the way. The smooth bore version will not work on earlier cars as there is no notch on the selector shaft for the pin to go...

The LH pic is the plastic tipped version. The RH is the steel tipped version. I assume the late model gearshift mountings suppressed any sizzle or buzz from that.

Whadhams sells both styles The metal end style is pinned to the shaft and is used with the gearbox extension plate set up. The plastic tipped style is used with the earlier remote style gearchange and has gripping splines and is clamped with a bolt. They are not interchangable. Note that if you...

Check the tailight grounds at the back of the car. A poor ground can create that symptom. Yours Vern

I think that would be pretty rare thing. That said, any HS6 carb would do, you can use all the car specific things from the old carb (spindle levers & arms, the piston spring & needle). Yours Vern

Try to get something to hook under the lid, right below the button, so you can pull back while pushing the button in. I think there should be enough flex in the lid to get the catch to clear. Might need two people. And of course some kind of hook. Yours Vern

Update, I can’t find that list here. Maybe I didn't post it. I’ll try and find where I did. Yours Vern

You don't need to drop the lot. You can pull the gearbox no problem. If you search my posts you’ll find a list of steps. Yours Vern

I’ll see what I can do. Yours Vern

I see nobody has replied yet. I can probably find you a couple of those. I’m in British Columbia, where are you? Yours Vern

There aren’t any really, as far as I can remember. Vertical hole at the back of the head feeds the camshaft through the rear cam bearing, and the cam is rifle drilled to feed the other bearings. At the front, the upper tensioner drilling is vertical, and then cross drilled from the front...

Rereading, I should have said “too advanced”, not retarded. Yours Vern

Timing light would be best as you can confirm the vacuum advance is working, and could be the problem (too retarded). I would remove the distributor to do the points and take apart at least the top of it and give it a clean and a lube. The advance mechanisms can get frozen if you don't lube them...

Oil would just leak out. And from experience trying to pack grease in will just fill the central cavity and not make it to the bearings. So I’d just leave it be for now. You may well have to change the bearing in that hub or get a good used — I have plenty if you need one. By the way, it’s...