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Ah, that’ll make it more difficult for sure. Maybe invest in a telephoto lens?

Might be worth posting some photos.

https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates

On the ball joint separation issue (admittedly on a LHD car). I’ve found these two style separators invaluable. https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/laser-ball-joint-separator-cup-type-1793-42345229 https://www.manomano.co.uk/p/210362-vidaxl-ball-joint-remover-5597952 On the lever style one. If you...

That seems all to familiar, gearbox hokey cokey, multiple engine pulls to diagnose a repeat noise. Glad you got it and now have a car to enjoy.

Pretty sure a 1971 car will be a Suffix B, unless swapped with another for some reason.

Yep, those are BL part numbers, Moog is the aftermarket supplier if the parts shop needs a cross ref.

Just to add to @robin collis points. The half shaft UJs are Moog 331 (or equivalent). Modern UJ bodies seem to be a little bigger than originals and I had to grind a small amount of the yokes before I could fit the body. Not a bad idea to replace the propshaft UJs too if you can. (Moog 369 or...

I've got to say that Lime Rock Park is one of the prettiest tracks I've ever seen.

Hi, you have the earlier HD8 carbs on your car. This PDF has a complete write up on tuning them, including how to adjust the. Fast idle. HD Carburetter Tuning – Single Carb Adjustment Guide | SU Carburetters It’s for a single carb, but the fast idle screw will be in the same place.

Thanks John, Lime Rock is a fun track, it looks deceptively simple at first but lots of nice little tricks to to learn for maintaining speed.

I measured the slots in the shift rods on the gearbox and turned to size with a little room. I can’t recall what that was now.

Didn’t seem fair to mention that. The driver was very slow!

I replaced the plastic finger tip with a turned bronze part. A little buzzing in some circumstances, but a much better shift quality. Almost feels like a short shifter with that and the other bushings replaced on a SI box.

Yep, she did pretty well. Pleased to see she held up against the 2002 Ti. Nice neutral handling too.

I can tell you after extensive testing; you're right!

That might be a better solution. I know the engine bay is tighter on the 3500.

You’ll most likely have to fabricate something to connect the cable to the pedal. The factory approach was a series of rods and joints. See if you can find a ‘see saw’ from a 2200TC (if there’s room in the 3500 engine bay). This was my solution for my lhd 2000TC...

If the pedal is going all the way down you still have air in the system. Are you using the factory manual approach to bleeding? Open bleeding nipple, push pedal all the way down, followed by there rapid half pumps, close nipple, then slide foot off pedal. Repeat until you have a solid pedal.

More pics from the weekend.

Looks like a kick down cable arrangement?

I ran Beryl in Preservation class at the VSCCA's Spring Sprints yesterday. We did a few sessions Plus the the drive there and back over two days (I was also sharing a friends AH Sprite that we'd replaced the engine on). Beryl didn't miss a beat! Had a fun tussal with a friend in his BMW 2002Ti...

If you’re not painting metallic you might want to consider doing the panels piecemeal off the car. Having them removed makes even coverage a lot easier. (I mention metallic because it tends to be harder to match if not sprayed at the same time).

The fan geometry would probably be pretty inefficient when spun backwards.

Have you checked under the sill covers? They can hide a lot.