Nice, have you driven the car since fitting?
The 3mm isn't all that satisfying to look at is it, what kind of force do you reckon will be on it?
I'm thinking perhaps another 3mm under the joint attaching to the top one to form a shackle. You could weld a threaded spacer block between them for...
This might be of interest to somebody restoring.
Genuine Rover Inner Chassis Rail closing panel (from back seats to boot)
I've never seen one for sale, but this part of the car usually doesn't take the brunt of the corrosion.
Useful for a rear ended crash damage repair perhaps
3 Phase multi process welding set. This is the top of the range from Jasic and just over 6 months old- verified by pat test sticker. As shown it was bought from SPA welding in Lancing, but I acquired it through a liquidation of a large steel company with the intention of keeping it. I don’t...
I messaged you privately Al.
Once I’m up and running properly and have turned out something I’m happy with, I’d definitely make up some sets if there’s interest- and if I can do it economically of course..
I’d also thought about adding grease nipples here, and to other suspension components I’m...
Good to know about the self lubricating nylon, Oilite also do all sorts of compounds other than the standard sintered bronze.
I had wondered about Teflon from its use in high performance rod ends etc, but think it’s probably unsuitable due to wear in this application..?
Read my mind with the nylon bushes, I’ve been thinking along those lines lately!
Looking forward to hearing more in depth results, including the hopefully fit and forget threaded shock mount which you know I’ve already done to my shell.
The horizontal coilover conversion was Simon’s second P6...
A bit more progress today. Now that the inner sill is off I have access to the chassis rail, which due to D post corrosion is also in need of repair. This would be nearly impossible to repair satisfactorily unless stripped down to this extent.
Both sides of my car are like this, the other side...
Bit of a break from the Rover due to work but back on it now. I made a temporary bolt in brace yesterday to keep everything square when I remove the entire inner sill.
It bolts into both sides of the car.
Today I’ll get the inner sill off and prep the new panel for welding in.
Ah sorry, they went to a really nice guy Mario a couple of months ago. He’s very active on Facebook groups at the moment, a car detailer by trade.
I do know that he recently changed them for rostyles which were what he really wanted, so think they’re back up for sale..
Do you think it’s been messed with or salvaged at the factory from a marginal casting perhaps? The machining of the grooves doesn’t look great does it..but I’ve never taken one apart so they could all be like that?
It doesn’t locate something on the other side does it?
I hear you Mark, I'm getting very excited about actually driving the thing, but at the same time love fabricating and making things 'better'. Hopefully I can find a good compromise on building what I want and getting it done in a timely manner now it's in full swing again!
I will be using panel bond on some of the build, most notably the bonnet cowl induction scoop. But happy to plug weld most of the structure as per factory, makes it easy to remove and repair in future. However if all goes to plan shouldn’t need repairing for a very long time.
Plan is to Epoxy...
Looks a a lathe job with some Delrin perhaps. Or if someone made the correct profile in aluminium or steel a mould could be taken and poly poured easily...
I’m thinking of converting mine to a T bar style mount inside the car as I’ll be using coilovers similar to Mark’s setup.
Outer sill now off.
Old vs New
Nearly at the point where I can mock up and weld in entire inner sill panel and build back up from there on this side. Can’t wait to see the clean lines and transitions.
I might pop a temporary brace into that side of the car before cutting old inner out.
I’ve had a few days of work work so not quite as much progress, but found a few hours today to remove B post.
In hindsight I didn’t need to drill out so much, I’d planned on splitting the two parts-inner and outer, but realised while doing it that wasn’t really necessary. Anyway...
Excellent. From what I’ve read with the Edelbrock/Weber 500, no off the shelf needle/jet combo is spot on, close but not perfect for the 4.6. A custom profile is required. I’ve got an AFR gauge going on my build so I can really see what’s going on at different driving conditions and tune...
Late lunchtime update.
I’ll shortly be at the stage of removing the outer sill. I’ve got the front and rear jacking point box sections off and most of the B pillar drilled out.
I’ve also removed the D post middle strengthening panel which has seen better days. It didn’t come off as nicely as...
It was indeed beer o’clock!
Yes I remember you having to do that Mark. Tbh I’d like to completely replace the lower mount with new steel but there’s little point for the amount of work and retaining the correct angle etc.
Progress today involved removing D post outer skin which is potentially salvageable considering the rot is the area I’ll be losing to fit the wider wheels.
Another quick mod to base unit I did today was to thread the front lower shock mount to M16x1.5 to use a Nyloc instead if split pin...
Yeah I’m trying to crack on with it daily, getting lots done.
I’ve removed a couple of factory items from the shell to simplify things.
The rear bump stops are no longer needed with coilovers and were rotten anyway. I’ve also now fully trimmed the original gearbox mounts only leaving the spot...
As you can see, I removed the driver side lower splash panel before blasting
The other side was plated and bodged and way more work to remove sympathetically. Not knowing what was under there I left it as it was.
Here’s what was underneath, nowhere near as bad as the plating would suggest...