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  1. V

    Fuel pump for a 2200 engined P6

    All cars had glass domes until roughly 1969, when a slightly higher pressure pump (to deal with the added return line to the fuel tank for emissions) was specified for NADA cars. That pump had a metal dome. Yours Vern
  2. V

    Steering Wheel Removal

    We're here to help. Yours Vern
  3. V

    Steering Wheel Removal

    It sound like the OP has just taken the wheel off its boss. If that's the case, he'll have to put the wheel back on and remove the central nut, then do the pull while rocking technique to free the wheel from the splines (leave the nut on loosely to prevent smacking yourself in the mouth with the...
  4. V

    Head gasket query P2000 SC

    The composite gasket was a 2200 innovation I think, what Eddy describes is correct and the only head gasket I used back inthe day, except for a couple of very early engines that had the two piece metal one. The BL number was GEG 311. However, not fitting over the dowel pin does sound suspicious.
  5. V

    Early NADA 2000TC Crankcase Breather

    That is the correct part. Even if you don't actually hook it up, the later breather cap is an improvement because the early cap allows oil to escape under spirited cornering, which then runs down onto the exhaust and fills the car with smoke. Yours Vern
  6. V

    Timing chain tensioner

    I do use a sealant on the head gaskets, but only Hylomar. Personal preference. Yours Vern
  7. V

    Tc 2000 gearbox alternative

    You might be surprised how many P6s there are here. Parts are available, and there is plenty of local talent to rebuild a gearbox. Yours Vern
  8. V

    Replacing Plastic Fuel Lines with Rubber

    It sounds like you have a restriction somewhere. I'm not sure replacing the plastic lines is the solution, though I have seen some so varnished up they were blocked. Yours Vern
  9. V

    Stiff breaks With running engine ---> Bleed problem rear *Fixed

    I'm starting to see lots of trouble with oversized repo seals, not only in this forum but elsewhere. Yours Vern
  10. V

    Oil leak

    I don't think you have do any converting, the engine already has hardened valve seats. Yours Vern
  11. V

    Oil leak

    The o-ring is a standard size, but you'll need a head gasket & those come with a o-ring so you should be OK. Yours Vern
  12. V

    dash speaker size

    The basket OD is 6.5 inches, so likely a 6" cone. Yoours Vern
  13. V

    New Fuel Tanks

    Nobody makes new tanks. Yours Vern
  14. V

    Valve Guide Replacement

    This would be something any competent shop should be able to do. Probably not the ones that screwed it up, thought you'd expect them to be anxious to make amends. Yours Vern
  15. V

    Front Spring Boing

    Not having the ends ground is suspicious. Outside my experience zone now though, so I don't know what to think. Yours Vern
  16. V

    de dion tube

    My, it appears many of us have boxes of good stuff if we could only find them. Yours Vern
  17. V

    de dion tube

    If you're willing to wait on the post, I can sent you one from here in BC. Like Harvey, I need to find the box but unlike Harvey I know I have a bunch of them. Yours Vern
  18. V

    Front Spring Boing

    Yes they are supposed to be slighty curved when under load. I'd check that roll bar clamps aren't loose at one end or the other. Yours Vern
  19. V

    4cyl reluctant to rev, is this normal?

    I've always used ATF or something very similar to 3in1 (which, by the way, has been around about as long as the automobile has) called turbine oil for electric motors, though for a short period I used official SU dashpot oil before I got tired of the price. Yours Vern
  20. V

    Stop lights not working

    All my parts catalogs show the switch either on top or facing forward on single circuit brakes. But the NADA twin circuit system (which has two switches) has one of them mounted on the bottom, so obviously it was done by the factory at times. Yours Vern
  21. V

    Stop lights not working

    It should work in any position, but being in the bottom it's going to slowly collect any sludge & debris that settles out so it's not the ideal position. Yours Vern
  22. V

    Stop lights not working

    I see replacement pipes there, I'll bet that's a restorer's custom configuration there. I agree, the switch should be horizontal. Yours Vern
  23. V

    Series 1 Tacho / Rev Counter

    I think the bottom one is a Smiths accessory tach, what makes me unsure is it doesn't have adjustable redline pointer. Yours Vern
  24. V

    Wheel bearings

    Not ideal, but you can put the old one on a mandrel, tap out the bulge and re-use it. Yours Vern
  25. V

    Rear Brakes Inoperative

    When the caliper operates the top of the outer pad & the bottom of the inner pad touch first, but then get clamped evenly. I'd suspect that that caliper barely works, just enough to touch off the pads but not enough to clamp them onto the rotor. That would explain the rust-free band at the top...