Just had something similar whereby my gear shift was stiff between drives and the shift button didnt depress properly. The cause was/is the pin which passes through the lever, this had moved sideways and one end was jamming inside the housing.
Remove the indicator panel and look...
I recently fitted front and rear rubbers from J R Wadhams. Front was pretty good except I couldnt get the top corners to be sharp enough to lay against the relief on the chrome trim.
Rear was pretty good as well except one internal corner wasnt former correctly and wouldnt sit against the glass...
Self adhesive draft excluder is the way to go. I used 24mm x 14mm soft polyurethane closed cell type which is much softer than the EPDM. This allowed the screen and screen vent rubber piece to sit together better. It's also nice and soft so at the ends where the screen rubber comes down it...
The front pulley on mine has "teeth"on it. I use a piece of square bar in these to rotate the engine. Also use this method to loosen/tighten the pulley bolt. The square bar went from the pulley over to the oil filter protection plate as a stop.
Do you need to pack the gears of a new ungraded oil pump with Vaseline IF you are going to spin the pump through the distributor hole before engine startup?.
I'm fitting an oil pump upgrade kit as well as new cam chain and gears.
Having spend much time under the car last night trying to get the verniers in a suitable position for measurement I can say that there is no up/down side/side movement in the output shaft. I'll strike this off my list of possible causes now. Having investigated and eliminated most...
I'll measure the exact end float and maybe you can tell me if thats good/bad. By the way when I do get a back change up or down sometimes the "clonk" is right under the transmission tunnel.
I’ve been chasing my drivetrain clonk over the years and the list was to check the output flange was not loose. i thought it may have been as my speedo wavered all over the place. Well I have checked the flange and the nut is very tight and I can’t move it. But, does move in and out...
Have found the size. Went to the local Seal and Bearing supplier. The size for the steering input seal is 18.72mm id x 2.62mm cross-section. This is an AS568 #116 standard size o-ring. Also I had them size the o-ring for the rocker shaft and this was 29mm id x 4mm cross-section.
Replacing the seals on my steering box. The later type with flat top. I have the larger o-ring for the rocker shaft but need the one for the input shaft. Can anyone provide the size for this (Rover 261855).
Have just refitted my sump with a new gasket after doing this about a year ago and forgetting to prepare the pan first.
What I do, have done this on the engine sump as well with no leaks, is to fix the overtightened bolt holes as DAV8 mentioned above. I place a socket which is just narrow...
I have just fitted both screens recently, the rear one last weekend. The front screen was very easy. Applied mastic to the outer inside corner of the frame (as per the manual), coated the rubber with lubricant and slide it in with the help of my son. Prior to this I applied mastic to the inside...
I'm ready to refit the stainless trim to the rear window. A new screen rubber has been installed. Can I please have some tips from people who have done this already. The trim seems to have to go into the window channel between the rubber and the body. Looking at it it looks like you need...
My 2 cents worth. Have you checked the distributor rotor for correct resistance?. I chased rough running down previously which ended in the rotor being open circuit. There was enough spark at idle but once the gas was on it ran very poorly with no power. I think resistance is typically about 5K...
I haven't had the car on the road yet. It is running and seems better but as I rev it at the higher end it spews out a lot of black smoke, I think this is unburnt fuel so running rich. Looking at the jet heights these were unequal and very low so I'm in the process of going back to...
When I removed the screen it was firm against the formed rubber piece with the demister vents. Under this formed rubber was the foam seal stuck to the base unit. This seal looks to be 5/8” square section. So the screen presses down on the formed rubber piece which compresses the foam seal and...
Does anyone have the thickness of the front windscreen spacers which go under the bottom channel. When I removed my screen for rust repairs there was none. NZ assembled car, maybe we didn’t fit these? The rear screen has a hard nylon spacer ~10.5mm at the center.