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Be careful who you buy an exchange box from. Only person I'd even consider is Andy on here. I'd definitely drop the sump, rear servos are prone to problems, and that will cause loss of reverse, but you should also lose engine braking in "1". It won't explain the noise on the 1-2 shift, but...

Drive in "1", lift off the throttle quickly, and you should feel the car being slowed if the rear band is working, if it just coasts then it's not.

If you have all forward gears but no reverse, and you want to try to diagnose possible problems, and you're prepared to risk another roadtest, see if you have engine braking in "1" (or "L")

We have a winner!

Looks solid. How much money did you find under the seats?

As far as I remember the the rear of the switch unscrews from the front. If that makes any sense.....

A heavy clutch as far as travel is concerned should have less travel not more if it's a hydraulic fault I used the 3500S master and SD1 slave on mine and it wasn't heavy. Could be the wrong release arm or pivot pin.

Check for worn or loose ball joints in the linkage or a loose compensator on the bellhousing. Make sure that the gearlever spherical seat is not worn or broken. If that's all in good condition, adjust the linkage slightly by shortening the vertical link.

If you have a lipseal in the timing case the oil thrower is deleted

You need to look in the factory workshop manual for the 3.9, and see what it says there about the piston grades and their letters. I wouldn't be mixing grades of pistons and blocks without some serious measurement.

There are six sizes of standard bore pistons, graded according to the actual bore size, these are designated by letters stamped into the piston crown, but none of those letters are H Or M come to that. Are these P6B engines?

That sounds like a plan.

Put the car in 2, or D2, and pull away. See if it slips or judders. If it does drop the sump and check the front band adjustment.

It goes right next to the dipstick tube. The bolt on the top holds the dipstick tube retainer bracket.

Remember that there are two types of the hose that goes from inlet manifold to bottom of heater, because there are two different sizes of fitting on the manifold

It's allowed, but I wouldn't do it. You'll get spammed to death. Send it in a PM, and delete it in the thread

Yes

It's the little bumps that need to face eachother

No

"Eightofthem" on here.

FYI there are two types, for early and late mountings. Yours is late, and IIRC the through bolt diameter is different, but don't quote me on that It has been covered in depth on here before, including the orientation, so it might be worth a search.

What a disgrace!

Never!!!!!!!

I just looked and his profile says he's in Scotland. :hmm:

It would be interesting to see how deep those marks are, but if they're bad enough to cause a problem, but you don't want to deck the block, composite gaskets would give you more of a chance than tin ones