BW65 auto gearbox does not shift to third gear on Rover P6 3500
- Thread starter Peter Sampers
- Start date
Peter Sampers
Member
HI Harvey
The test result of putting the car uphill and putting it '2' and releasing the brakes is that the car stays in place. That means it behaves as if it is in '1'. It doesn't roll back but shows the same behaviour at if it is in '1' or 'D'. It wants to go forward.
Allthough you could be right about 2nd gear not there. I do not know how much RPM the engine should make in third gear at for example 120 km/h (around 70 mph)
The test result of putting the car uphill and putting it '2' and releasing the brakes is that the car stays in place. That means it behaves as if it is in '1'. It doesn't roll back but shows the same behaviour at if it is in '1' or 'D'. It wants to go forward.
Allthough you could be right about 2nd gear not there. I do not know how much RPM the engine should make in third gear at for example 120 km/h (around 70 mph)
It should roll backwards in "1", but stay in place in "2". Is the hill steep enough? If the front band isn't working it will roll backwards in "1" and "2"
All the above assumes it is a proper Rover gearbox. What is the series number on the gearbox dataplate?
70mph would be about 3500rpm
All the above assumes it is a proper Rover gearbox. What is the series number on the gearbox dataplate?
70mph would be about 3500rpm
Peter Sampers
Member
Yes the hill is definitely steep enough. I can't imagine that it is not a rover box, but will see what the serial number is.
Do you know where I can find it?
Other question, in the BW manual I read that if there is 'no second ratio' amongst others possibly the front brake band could need to be adjusted. What do you think?
Do you know where I can find it?
Other question, in the BW manual I read that if there is 'no second ratio' amongst others possibly the front brake band could need to be adjusted. What do you think?
The dataplate is on the LHS of the casing. (Driver's side LHD)
Loss of SECOND gear is front band related, which could be the adjustment, but more likely it's the seals failed in the servo. Hopefully it's not the band worn out, but you would have seen evidence of that in the oil.
Check the adjuster locknut isn't loose, and then check the adjustment.
Loss of SECOND gear is front band related, which could be the adjustment, but more likely it's the seals failed in the servo. Hopefully it's not the band worn out, but you would have seen evidence of that in the oil.
Check the adjuster locknut isn't loose, and then check the adjustment.
Peter Sampers
Member
I have a look at the serial number.
And I will check the adjuster, but where is that situated?
And I will check the adjuster, but where is that situated?
Peter Sampers
Member
hi harvey
The number on the dataplate is 6708. I found the adjuster of the front band. The rear band adjuster is on the opposite side of the box a little bit more to the back of the car. The front band adjuster locknut isn't loose.
What is your suggestion?
The number on the dataplate is 6708. I found the adjuster of the front band. The rear band adjuster is on the opposite side of the box a little bit more to the back of the car. The front band adjuster locknut isn't loose.
What is your suggestion?
Peter Sampers
Member
I was wondering. Because the car hasn't driven for a while and now with the new oil and governor, could in time the problem not solve itself when driving more regular with it? so that the second gear comes back by itself?
I can't find that series number in my paperwork, but that doesn't mean to say that it isn't Rover. All I would say is that all the series numbers for 65/66 boxes with 4 numbers that I've seen start with "60".
It depends what the problem is. If it was the servo valve sticking in the housing then possibly, if it's a pipe that supplies the servo then it wont.
Driving it missing out SECOND altogether shouldn't do much harm. (To the transmission).
How many miles have you done since recommissioning the car?
Peter Sampers
Member
Hello back
Since i own the car i drove maybe 150 miles with it, merely test driving. Always very short distances.
I had to fix a pushrod and a rocker first and after that i had to pay attention to the ignitin which needed a new vacuum unit and had to replace parts of the lumenition ignition. So I didn't get bored so far
After next week I hope to start driving more regular with it.
Since i own the car i drove maybe 150 miles with it, merely test driving. Always very short distances.
I had to fix a pushrod and a rocker first and after that i had to pay attention to the ignitin which needed a new vacuum unit and had to replace parts of the lumenition ignition. So I didn't get bored so far
After next week I hope to start driving more regular with it.
Peter Sampers
Member
To be honest, it is alway a bit frustrating when you spend quite a bit of work and especially time (because that's what is lacking mostly) and hope to get the right result and than it doen't happen. In this case it is not so bad, because the adjustment of the downshift cable already gives quite some improvement and shifting from 1-3 isn't that bad.
It accelerates maybe a little but less fast but the engine runs at low RPM and I really like the sound of it. I don't mind so much about that and hope it recovers by itself. We will see.
Peter Sampers
Member
I should add, that I highly appreciate all the help you gave me. I couldn't have done anything to the gearbox without it at all.
In view of the previous statement that started this all off (that you had lost TOP) I have to ask if you're sure that you're going 1-3, and not pulling away in SECOND and driving 2-3, as that difference would obviously make a big difference to any diagnosis.
Thanks, I'm happy to help. Obviously not seeing and driving the car makes it a whole lot more difficult for me, but I just look on that as being more of a challenge.
Peter Sampers
Member
Yes that's right. For me the difficulty was that it is a complete new experience for me and In the beginning I was totally not familiar with the car. So I had no clue how much RPM the engine makes at all at certain speeds. And I fully agree it is very difficult to do a remote diagnoses without seeing the behaviour of, hearing or driving the car.
Peter Sampers
Member
One other thing which i never mentioned. When I put the car in reverse, and driving backwards the engine has the tendency to stall.
Sometimes the coupling comes in a bit harsh in reverse, engine idle speed is fine I would say, but when I go backwards the engine speed seems to drop too low, the engine starts stuttering a bit and mostly it than stalls, after driving backwards around 15 - 20 meters.
Diificult question I think, but any hints?
Sometimes the coupling comes in a bit harsh in reverse, engine idle speed is fine I would say, but when I go backwards the engine speed seems to drop too low, the engine starts stuttering a bit and mostly it than stalls, after driving backwards around 15 - 20 meters.
Diificult question I think, but any hints?
The BW65/66 has extra parts fitted to the front clutch to soften the engagement of forward drive, and similar parts are not fitted into the rear clutch, so engagement of REVERSE is often harsher than the engagement of forward drive.
As for the stalling after reversing for that short distance, I can't think of anything offhand that could be causing that, but maybe something else you mention in the future could give further clues as to the cause.