need help

started car up forn1st time in two weeks it fired 1st time moved it out the garage and it felt like it had no power so move choke in half way and it just died, wouldn't start again, fuel gauge didn't move up so i thought perhaps i ran out of fuel, filled two cherry cans up still won't start, so i'm going to go through obvious checks fuel and spark if i have no spark where would be the likely problem? (coil???) of i have no fuel getting through (fuel pump???) any help would be appreciated
 
Hi Wayne,

To see if fuel is coming through to the carburettors, disconnect the line where it links with the fuel filter. Crank the engine over, and if fuel spurts forth, then you have fuel.

To check for spark, disconnect the lead between the coil and the distributor, at the distributor. With an assistant cranking the engine over whilst you hold the lead close to the rocker cover, check for a spark. If you see one, then the coil is good.

How old is the fuel in the tank? If the gauge does not move, buy some fuel collecting in a suitable fuel vessel, and pour into your tank. Crank engine and test again.

Lets know how you go!

Ron.
 
Just to add that if your going to check for fuel delivery make sure you disconnect the coil + lead as you don't want any fires!
And when checking for spark pull coil lead out of cap and check it at the coil mount bolts away from the fuel area.
Clive.
 
good advise thus far. assuming we have spark as it started and ran ..coil etc is ok as unlikely ( technically possible) to fail just then. sounds like a commen rover P6 carb issue where existing fuel in flat chamber is used .. then lack of french fuel due to air ? ethanol in fuel etc creates a low or no fuel supply situation. this engine simply just out *( been there -got a T shirt etc and still having fuel issues ..carbs refurbished . levels checked etc) so can sympathise.
do check fuel supply by cranking method but keep a tin and rag handy and possibly a fire extinguisher..can't be too careful with out valued possessions.
i now expect after a first start to use choke .( no power) and after a run -- restart ok but drives few hundred yards then cuts out..choke needed and low power ( 20 mph is fast at that stage) after 2-3 mins fresh fuel gets delivered and away we zoom ..well go at least and can get back up to 30 :)
 
Hi Wayne,

To see if fuel is coming through to the carburettors, disconnect the line where it links with the fuel filter. Crank the engine over, and if fuel spurts forth, then you have fuel.

To check for spark, disconnect the lead between the coil and the distributor, at the distributor. With an assistant cranking the engine over whilst you hold the lead close to the rocker cover, check for a spark. If you see one, then the coil is good.

How old is the fuel in the tank? If the gauge does not move, buy some fuel collecting in a suitable fuel vessel, and pour into your tank. Crank engine and test again.

Lets know how you go!

Ron.
Hi Ron i have put fresh fuel in about £12 worth still no joy with it starting
 
wet sooty spark plugs.
ok little up date i have spark, went out to the car and it started again then conked out, i realised i had left choke out so chances are it just fired up on fuel already in the carb, so i disconnected fuel pipe after filter to carb and was getting no fuel through, disconnected the pipe between pump and filter and i'm getting fuel, so i blew through the filter and was not getting air flow eventually i got air and reconnected it fuel only seems to be building halfway through the filter and dropping back down so it would seem i'm not getting any fuel pressure, could this be down to weak battery??? or a fuel pump issue???
 
I take it you have the original mechanical pump then ?
If so it could be a pump problem, either crud in it or diaphragm / valve issues. The pumps have valves that are around 3/4 inch dia or 1" dia . you can only get kits for the smaller valved pumps. I went to all the trouble of getting smaller valves to fit in my big valve pump by making inserts only to have the pump stop pumping because of a pump cam issue, I never got to the bottom of it and gave up and went electric.
You could also check that you are getting a good feed from the tank and that the lines are not blocked. Or of course that you have not run out of fuel :)
 
I take it you have the original mechanical pump then ?
If so it could be a pump problem, either crud in it or diaphragm / valve issues. The pumps have valves that are around 3/4 inch dia or 1" dia . you can only get kits for the smaller valved pumps. I went to all the trouble of getting smaller valves to fit in my big valve pump by making inserts only to have the pump stop pumping because of a pump cam issue, I never got to the bottom of it and gave up and went electric.
You could also check that you are getting a good feed from the tank and that the lines are not blocked. Or of course that you have not run out of fuel :)
i have not ran out of fuel as i put two cherry cans in thinking that maybe the initial issue, still running mechanical fuel pump, ran fine started on the button upto this morning, i last used it two weeks ago, i have however noticed a smell of fuel when i open the garage door but not noticed any obvious leaks,
 
I guess that as you now know that you have a fuelling issue it is a case of working through methodically from the tank forward until you crack the problem.
Good luck with it.
 
i had similar and after replacing fuel filter and fuel pump still had poor fuel flow...after a bit of head scratching ( splinters to prove it) I checked the valve for switching between reserve an main .it was alway s disconnected so I had ignored it. with a check it turns out had slowly moved position and was causing full starvation .. replacing viton seal was difficult in situ . ( rover designers never thought about servicing..aka rear brake issues)
may just be worth a check ? though fuel pump lift may be an issue . I removed mine and got a repair kit . changed seals etc and checked .. ok
 
i had similar and after replacing fuel filter and fuel pump still had poor fuel flow...after a bit of head scratching ( splinters to prove it) I checked the valve for switching between reserve an main .it was alway s disconnected so I had ignored it. with a check it turns out had slowly moved position and was causing full starvation .. replacing viton seal was difficult in situ . ( rover designers never thought about servicing..aka rear brake issues)
may just be worth a check ? though fuel pump lift may be an issue . I removed mine and got a repair kit . changed seals etc and checked .. ok
i did read somewhere else that maybe an issue where would the reserve be located and what do i need to look out for?
 
Later cars have it in the motor bay. Look at the rear end of the exhaust manifold and then a little bit more back, it´s mounted at the inner wing. Mine is on the rh side (have a lhd car, but I think they are all on the same side). Two fuel lines go in and one goes out to the carbs. If you did not pull the petrol reserve knob recently, be careful, than the old
O-ring can leak and maybe that´s the reason for fuel smell (but I would check all lines anyway). Now that your tank is nearly empty, it´s a good opportunity to change the O-ring, just lift the car also somewhat at the front.
 
ok thanks is there a way of just bypassing it as it seems like a real pain in the arse and for what little use the car gets i don't really see the point of having a reserve tap, especially as if it doesn't get used for long periods i could drag a load of shit through causing no end of grief
 
mtb is correct . if early car do check under feel tank where reserve switch is found . otherwise on inner wing .you can see cable going to it from fuel reserve pull. its a viton seal and easy to get ( don't use other 'o'rings as they are not all fuel compatible) fiddly to change though on inner wing .patience is a virtue they say.. just as well i keep my large heavy hammer out of reach when working on my rover lol. as to smell of fuel . mien had that for many months . even vented garage . was a bit worried about fire so bought extinguisher . never found root cause but it eventually went . I suspect something blocked as car wasn't used much but with several tank refills and much renewal of fuel pipes .clips and refurb ( lift pump) I think its all ok . you only need a slight leak even from filler to get fumes in air as petrol gasses off with heat and time. you may have noticed flame traps and vents on fuel tanks ? ( commercial properties etc)
 
Wayne, forget bypassing at the moment. The original plastic fuel lines should be replaced then especially the one from the tank you would use as a single supply line in the future. To disconnect you must use a hotair gun and then the pipe is scrap. Take off the air filter box, look for the "valve junction", use WD40 and clean everything, also the fuel line from the reserve tap unit to the carbs (short plastic line from reserve tap over the gearbox to the side of the motor block, then a steel line, with fittings to the mechanical fuel pump. Take off the cable from the reserve tap, check if the cable itself (a solid wire) runs freely and so you can also check, if position of the reserve tap is correct or if it´s blocked somewhere between reserve and no-reserve.
Be careful with the small screw to remove the lever itself and having access to the O-ring. There is not much room to work, have a proper (stubby) screwdriver.
From the reserve tap to the carbs I have used new fuel hoses with clamps, that´s the easy side.
From tank to reserve tap you have to prepare a complete set of fuel lines (plastic, steel...), so I would check the existing ones first. For 43 years old fuel lines they look remarkably well.
 
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