Rear Hubs - Wire Wheels - No locking washer on Drive Shaft

Is anyone familiar with the differences in the rear hubs, when a wire wheel hub is fitted?
I have been investigating some movement, which I thought was a worn outer UJ on the near side, which turn out to be dirt on the hub/wheel facings.

It's just that I was surprised to see no locking washer on the drive shaft nut. To be fair, there is hardly any room in there to fit and bend the locking washer.

http://shop.mwsint.com/product_details.asp?id=511 - Says there is a fitting guide, but there isn't.
 
I've never seen the P6 hubs so I cannot be authoritative. However, the Jaguar IRS hubs have no locking washer, but a split pin through the drilled nut and drive shaft, so the Rover may be the same and you may be missing a split pin. The easy way to tell is that if it is a pinned arrangement , the splined area of the hub will have two holes in the periphery to enable access to the pin to be gained
 
Thanks for the reply..
It's not a split pin arrangement, the same drive shaft is used (as on the steel wheels) and there is no drilled hole in the drive shaft for a pin etc... also there are no holes in the splined hub (unlike the fronts) to allow the split pin to be fitted.

Neither is there a grove in the wire wheel hub to fit the locking washer, even if there was room for it be bent over to lock the nut (which there isn't).

Looks to me like the nut is just torqued up - which may be normal for the arrangement....

It's just that on the normal hub, the end float is carefully adjusted by the drive shaft nut and then locked in position by the locking washer - It isn't just torqued up...
 
The parts list calls for the same lock washer, 539168, as the steel wheel arrangement. So it must be possible to bend the washer after installation.

The list also calls for a special washer (for both types) 539167, which I take to be the two flat washer that the lock plate is meant to key to. Perhaps this is missing.

Yours
Vern
 
This is the bit I don't understand - I have taken a couple of pictures of the standard hub and my parts catalogue (which has no mention of the parts for the wires).
So the locking washer 539168 is bent first around the special washer 539167 and then around the securing nut 254827.

The tension/preload is set by collapsing the collapsable spacer a little and then the nut is locked to the special washer...but the only thing holding the special washer in place is the force of the nut!? - This is what it looks like to me.

The wire wheel hubs on mine (were fitted new from these people http://www.mwsint.com/custom/Fitmen...p?category=87&carId=FG000137&make=RO&CarYear= and are exact to the Rover originals) have the special washer 539167 and then the nut - no locking washer.

They are 52mm width hubs and the nut sits really deep into this.... there is no way (as far as I can see) of getting something down there to bend the thick locking washer. Its not like the standard hub, where the locking washer is flush with the mating surface of the wheel etc.

The workshop manual, suggests in an illustration that the early rear standard hubs may have had a split pin and a "special nut" - The usual arrangement is the special washer and locking washer, but i don't really see what is holding the special washer from turning, other than the force of the nut.
 

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It looks like I didn't read correctly, the special washer for the wires is a different number, 534770 not 539167. And the nut is different. Steel wheels use 254827, wires use 539494. So the only common parts for wires is the yoke shaft and the locking washer.

The parts list for the wires also says there is a circlip fitted, but my reading of the list suggests it is fitted after the nut, in the groove at the end of the shaft.

I have never seen a parts illustration of the wires, sadly. The parts list I am quoting appears in a Nov 66 service newsletter announcing the option for TC cars. It was a factory only option, not dealer fitted.

Yours
Vern
 
Hi there Vern,

Is there any chance you could post a picture of the service newsletter or the page of the parts list, that would be really helpful.

Thank you
 
It's been a long while since I had the back wheels off my car but I seem to recall that they had nylock nuts on them.
 
Here are two pics of the parts list.

Yours
Vern
 

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Mystery solved I think. I have a parts book with an illustration!

The list in the last pics is wrong, there is no lock washer. The special washer 534770 (44) does not have flats. While normally a nylock would be called "self locking" in Rover parts lists, the 539494 is the right sort of part number and more importantly the illustration shows the nylock "head" on the nut (45). Finally the cir clip (46) goes on where I though, and obviously is the safety mechanism if the nylock didn't hold.

Yours
Vern
 

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Thank you very much Vern, although I think I am even more confused to be honest.
No Circlip to found on mine and no where for one to fit either lol
 
p6baseunit said:
Thank you very much Vern, although I think I am even more confused to be honest.
No Circlip to found on mine and no where for one to fit either lol


The circlip goes on the end of the shaft. I've arrowed the shoulder it rests against.

Yours
Vern
 

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Have removed front splined hubs off the donor car, which was fairly easy (for a car laid up 30 years it was a breeze).
The rear is somewhat more troublesome. Removed the 6 nut and bolts (why not captive?) securing hub to de-dion tube. Cannot get much force on the 4 bolts securing driveshaft to differential.
Can I just undo the bearing nut and pull off splined shaft complete with outer bearing? (think this nut is 1 1/8" AF but needs to be a deep one so would like to be certain before buying)
If this succeeds can the hubs be getting in place of the steel wheel hubs on the other car?
 
In theory there are lock tabs on the bolts securing the axle to the diff. you need to unbend them first so you can get a socket onto them if they are still fitted. you will find there are a couple of positions of rotation at which you can get a 1/2" drive socket onto the bolts. then you need a longish breaker bar to go in the socket and they will come loose with enough force. You can hold everything steady with the handbrake.Alternatively a couple of socket extensions will get you to enough space to use a rattle gun, either air or electric.
 
Thanks. Rear is totally seized after 30 years standing. Had to be dragged on and off car trailer :)
Might split driveshaft at bearing and leave inner part with donor.
 
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