Although you have identified fuel system problems I’d be tempted to just check you’re getting a spark too. Just to be sure.
On the slow filling of the filter. If the float chambers are full then you will see a slower fill rate in the filter (assuming there’s no return fuel line to the tank).
The pistons are aluminium, so quite soft, so bear that in mind. Protect them with cardboard or fabric when using the vice. I would hold it by the cylinder that’s below the grooved part of the piston. That’ll be happier with the force.
I'm afraid that is the screw you need to remove. Maybe try warming the whole assembly in the oven. Clamp the piston by its base in a vice (wrap with cloth first to protect it) then take a good quality screwdriver, align it with the slot in the screw head and tap it with a hammer. Now push down...
Just to be clear are you referring to the collars on the diff output shafts? JRW sell them new. Or you can get a local machine shop to make them from these drawings.
https://classicroverforum.net/index.php?resources/thrust-collar-for-differential-output-shaft.3/
I used 12mm sound insulating foam with high mass vinyl to deaden sound and vibration. It made a real difference to noise and fatigue on long journeys, absolutely worth the effort. There’s some work in progress pics here...
I’ve found the same thing. It was at idle on hot days that the float chambers on my 2000tc would boil, never had an issue with the engine getting hot, even on track with 90°f days. Incidentally, I’m thinking of putting in an electric fan to free up a few ponies. So it’s a win/win.
If that’s fine and it is a fuel problem check the fuel pump. Modern fuel with ethanol can damage the rubber flap valves and diaphragm.
You mention a full rebuild of the carbs, are you sure the float levels are correctly set?
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