Thanks so much for posting the pictures.
Both the manuals I have here don't make it clear that the SS trim has to be fitted to the body first. I also realise now that the trim needs a bit of force to get it fully seated.
On a normal glass replacement the trim would stay in place, but I'd had it...
I've run into problems fitting the rear screen. Basically I can't work out how the stainless trim trim is supposed to fit.
There is a folded edge which looks like it ought to sit inside the channel in the body, adjacent to the rubber. However if I try and fit it like this the screen won't push...
Thanks for the reply. I have a spare rear window here which has the same problem.
It was only really an "icing on the cake" job, so I'll just refit the screen and pretend it never had a rear demister, from the factory
I've got the rear window out, and it seems a good time to look at the non functional demisters.
All of the tracks are open circuit, and the problem seems to be rather more than just breaks in the track. It's almost as though the conductive material has completely oxidised. The only continuity I...
That's not right, from the 1967 factory manual
1) camber : 0deg +/- 1deg
2) castor: 0.5 deg positive +/- 0.5degree
3) swivel pin inclination: 8 deg
1) is the angle of the wheel when viewed from the front, negative means the wheels splay out
2) is the angle of the king pin (steering axis)...
Hi Harvey
I can try doing that - another idea I had was to lift up one wheel at a time and see if the steering effort is the same in both cases. So you don't think the steering damper has much effect when backsteering it via the wheels?
When I say stiff to turn, as I say its difficult to...
Hi Dave, someone has already asked that and its on 165R14's standard size. I keep them pumped up a bit harder than the book says too, around 28psi or so. You are dead right though, even a small increase in tyre width could make the steering heavy - I remember that from the non-PAS car's I owned...
OK so I'm getting myself psyched up for taking off these top links. I had a look at the drivers side and the bushes on that side look well-chewed up - I'd say its allowing the link to move forward a good 2-3mm.
Now the Rover manual shows these 3 retaining rods with flattened ends which hook in...
Interesting reading this thread. My own car has more noise on the left hand side, both front tyres are the same type and it was just the same with the previous tyres. But none of the tyres will have been the same as the original Dunlop SP's which I think the car would have been fitted with new...
Donkeys years ago I drove a series 1 v8 and I don't remember it being like this. That car was 10 years old and about 65k miles.
Did you put packers under both of the bell crank mounts, and can you remember how sensitive it was - e.g. how much effect did (say) a 1mm packing have? I do think a...
Tyres are 165R14, I have them a bit harder than the book says to try and reduce steering effort - about 30 psi.
Tracking can't be far off as the tyres wear fairly evenly. Wheels are off at the moment so I can double check the tyre wear.
Thanks for so many replies!
I can relate to classicalgreens "strength of popeye" comment. I had a power steering hose burst on an XJS once, and I'd say the Rover is giving that car a run for it's money on steering weight, when moving.
One of the upper ball joints was replaced a while back, but...
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