I'm sorry this is a bit late (I really must get my photos organised and all in the same place) but shows the size difference. The wiring is quite straightforward and it comes with diagrams for ballasted and non-ballasted systems.
FWIW I used a dual range temperature switch and some relays to switch my 2 fans between series to spin at a low speed and parallel to spin at high speed as the water temperature increases just to cut down the power drawn, it works well but on reflection it would have been a lot simpler to just...
I agree that electronic ignition is a worthwhile change (I've got Lumenition) but the OP's starter is broke.
My old starter motor worked well enough but when it packed up again I went for the Powerlite, it's a straight replacement, is smaller, easier on the battery and starts straight away. I...
I've had the same model (RAC318) on my 4.6 since 2014 and have no complaints. They have a reduction gearbox so motor is smaller, spins faster and draws less current so for the same size battery, one of these will spin the engine for longer before flattening the battery and slowing down. Also...
The lowest 'open' point is the oil pickup pipe at the level of the oil in the sump so regardless of how high or low the filter is, if air leaks in then oil starts draining back into the sump unless something physically stops it. On my old (and worn) engine I once fitted a filter without an...
Yes, that's the simplest way and I did consider it but I'm not keen on the cable run, it'd either be very close to the non-standard exhaust manifolds which are straight out 6" past the rocker covers (too hot?) or sticking out in a curve above them.
I don't know if heat proof sleeving would be...
The carbs, manifold, air filter box etc are from the original 1972 V8 and 4 speed manual (taken from a p6b) and I don't have any of the engine end linkage parts that I'll need for the ZF auto conversion. There's a pin through the spindle that turns in the 2 bushed holes in the manifold behind...
I don't know if this makes any difference but maybe I should have mentioned that in my case the engine was well and truly worn and it was oily black stuff jamming the smaller diameter lower section in the carb body - on dismantling, the piston still moved freely in the dashpot.
I'm looking for the parts at the inlet manifold end - the rod and lever that pulls the inner cable, the bracket and support bearing for the rod/lever assembly and the bracket that the cable outer sits in. Can anyone help please?
Cheers Colin, it doesn't look too hard to make up the rod and lever if I can't get the real thing - it'd be nice if I can get hold of the bracket/bearing for the rod and the holder for the cable outer too but again, probably not too hard to make something if need be.
A quick bit of background - I bought the trike in 2012 and joined here because it had v8 and 4-speed manual gearbox from a 1972 P6b. 3 years later I found aluminium in the sump and a cracked lifter gallery so I put the carbs, manifold, front cover, distributor etc from the scrap 3.5 onto a 4.6...
I'm converting from manual to auto and my inlet manifold doesn't have the extra parts to connect the kickdown cable - I bought the missing parts I need some years ago but now that I've dug them out of the garage for a trial fit I realise they're not what I thought they were...
Does anyone have...
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