Recent content by Julian

Sorry, bad habit of mine. on a car its called a condenser (in side distributor as 99.9% of people already know) but it is basically a capacitor just an old term for it. Cheep to swap out as well and a good first point to start.

Nope, I still put my money on coil or capacitor, classic symptoms, gets warm and starts braking down, leave it a bit and then all ok until it gets warm again.

Coil! when a coil start failing one of the faults is as it warms up, it has a dry joint on the primary side that goes open open circuit. So worth checking the spark when it is failed state. I know this has happened to a older BMW and an older ford that i have repaired, both after about 20...

Got engine in last week! surprisingly easy!!! found a carb fault on commissioning that I didn't pick up on carb strip down, now waiting for parts before test firing. (the long wait for post over the easter weekend) So going to go and have close look at my possible next project, a ford P100...

Just putting it out there, i would also be looking at major vacuum leak. plug up the brake servo pipe port to rule out servo, if your servo is sucking air it would knock out / reduce power on half the engine, + check for vacuum leaks (I don't recommend propane gas being swept over joints to see...

I did this job only this week, I ended up using Stanley knife to carefully cut most of the way through the rubber over the white plastic and then eased off with a screw driver. it is meant to be a push on pipe but with age it doesn't and you rick breaking the fitting on the servo. the new pipe...

I have a Webasto sun shade + all the other less important Webasto bits bar any of the folding material from a 1976 P6. The car was in storage for 40 years so its in fairly good condition, bar the following defects: a faint 2" scratch in centre area, (above thumb in photo) Chrome on centre hinge...

On my calcs it basically works out that the outer face of the wheel is in roughly the same place on both wheel hubs and with the increase of offset and wider rims all the extra material is on the back face, makes sense and ties up with what Tony said above, didn't know about modified front hubs...

You are correct, I have found the stamping, the 150mm wide rims are indeed stamped 5-JFHX-14 with a 40mm offset and the 165mm rims are stamped 5.5-JSLX-14. I have measured all the 5.5J wheels and all measure an offset of 47.5mm and not what I thought was set in stone at 40mm. My personal...

The beads also have 15mm difference. These wheel came of P6 rovers, the 165mm rim is from a P6B Auto that was laid up in 1982 So offset on the 150mm wheel rim is indeed 40mm. the offset on the 165mm rim is 47.5mm. From my calculations the entire additional 15mm width is on the inside of the...

Bit of knowledge / confirmation of my theory. Re-Steel wheel rim width: Just paint striping the 5 wheel rims from the car, only after loads of work to notice that three of the wheels were skinny on width at 6" where as 2 were 6 1/2". I can only assume the skinny ones were taken from a 2000 /...

well almost there with the engine, still need a few bits for it and some weather to fit it, noted this is a later 9.25CR engine.

Also noted, all bearing were standard size and very little wear, replacing all new shells anyway with no grinding, also bores were standard size and very good, just a bit of honing required.

More before and after pics of my ongoing project (1974 P6 3500 Auto), started on last major task "Engine", I will let you all to decide which pic is before and after. Plus also rocker shaft found broken inside a post and measured 0.9mm of total wear / difference between rocker & shaft on...

Found it, 3/16 hex drive grub screw in centre, rear, bottom. will need a good driver to get it out as cheep hex key is not going to cut it.