Recent content by jp928

Getting the filler neck free of the first hose was the least of my problems - grabbed it once with variable jaw long pliers and it let go. Despite a bit of grease on the end getting it started into the hose was a bit of a pain. Only test left now is does fuel leak when pumping it in?

Initially I thought the top flange of the rubber was under the decker panel where the screw holes are, but looking at the old grommet I see impressions of the 4 screw points on the underside, so the flange goes on the top side, which makes complete sense if we want to seal the boot from water...

Well, I didnt enjoy it when I had to actually get in the boot, and as for getting out, if I have to do it much more I will need some neck muscle training. I see how it should seal now, so less worried about that issue. Unless its been done before it was actually in pretty condition, apart from...

Got all the bits. Here is the old grommet - nice triangular tear, similar to those accidentally made by a screwdriver. Separating the filler neck from the first hose was pretty easy really. I greased the bottom groove where the grommet grabs the body with silicon grease. Getting it into place...

Its too big in dia, and length to go in there - that spring is barely 1/2" long and in dia. There is no spring this shown in either the official manual or Haynes. I can only envisage this big spring going in the white plastic part, behind the diaphragm, to help push the air valve shut...Trying...

Got a new valve part for the booster, dismantled old one, and forgot where the spring goes.....blackout. There is a rubber diaphragm on the white plastic body, and there is a spring - softish, ~1" dia, free length 1.5". Which side of the diaphragm does it go please? Booster side or whate...

Wins Wins International - Carburetor Throttle Rod Ball Socket Assembly

Correction - gauge is a Bourdon stube type , not thermocouple. Since seeing air into filter housing getting quite warm I have wrapped the plastic tube in silver tape in an atttempt to reduce the heat getting to the tube.

That should do the job. I had a ball joint fail (plastic) on mine. IIRC the thread is 3/16unf, and I was able to buy an end by itself. Or maybe 10-32 - get your thread gauge out.

thanks! So the wire is inside the grommit, pushing outwards, and the upper end of the grommit seals on the filler neck near the top..? Wont this let water that comes off the top of the filler flap dribble down the grommit and sit between the base unit and the grommit? If so, any errors in...

Beat me to it! Churchill? Can anybody clarify how the grommets fits into the whole assemble please? I cant visualize where it goes, or where and how the piece of wire fits in there - the parts book is no help.

The AC version of the heater core is listed as 606616, listed by MGBD as coming soon, GBP130. Surprised you cant find anybody to repair or copy the core. I did a search on the soft copy of the parts book, and its listed in the AC section. Duh! no picture.

Thanks, thats encouraging. I tried measuring the air in the filter casing mouth the other day, and it was discouragingly high, but back at home I found the hose inlet had worked its way over close to radiator, so I will have to try that again. Also proposing to wrap the flexible hose in some...

Unstable said "A cotter pin remover should be able to get in between the pipe and the stem to loosen things off a bit for you." Obviously 'cotter pin' is not universal. I was brought up that this 9.5 x 42mm Cotter Pin with Nyloc Nut - each 9339506005914 | eBay was a cotter pin, used to lock a...

Thanks all. The bolt most forward is , for me, unreachable with the hose in place. Watching in the gap between the decker panel and the boot panel, water poured on the filler cap appears on the underside of the filler pipe. Cannot see any sign of the wire mentioned in the book - should it be...