I have to look at a friends car sadly he died suddenly so Im checking his car over I went to start it today,in a dark dingy garage and I was unable to fine the starter button,So I started it by the solenoid button Seems a silly question but where is the starter button on the DASH ???Len
STARTER BUTTON
- Thread starter digcot65
- Start date
Thanks Im having to get it checked over to sell,since the owner died suddenly a few weeks ago It is in a tiny garage and even difficult to get into it .So Im having it brought to my house,where I have plenty of garage space. I didnt want to force the key ,its a 1963 model so maybe the key is seized The car looks immaculate and will made a lovely classic to own Ill let you know how I get on Len
^^^, my thought as well.
Assuming it's a P4 we're talking about, the combined key/starter was introduced with the 80 & 100 models. 1963 should be a 95 or 110, in which case a petrol reserve switch should be immediately above the igntion key. 95 & 110 had instruments with black surrounds, earlier models were chrome.
Assuming it's a P4 we're talking about, the combined key/starter was introduced with the 80 & 100 models. 1963 should be a 95 or 110, in which case a petrol reserve switch should be immediately above the igntion key. 95 & 110 had instruments with black surrounds, earlier models were chrome.
AL
Finally got it to my garage but the brakes are really binding It has the black surround,round the instruments and the reserve switch above the key.
However I can turn it on with just one of the three keys,but no way will the key turn further to start it So I have to use the solenoid to start .The car is the best P4 I have ever seen and Ive restored over 30 cars as a hobby It started within a second and hasnt been used for some weeks Have to cure the brakes and sort out the starter Then it has to be sold
However I can turn it on with just one of the three keys,but no way will the key turn further to start it So I have to use the solenoid to start .The car is the best P4 I have ever seen and Ive restored over 30 cars as a hobby It started within a second and hasnt been used for some weeks Have to cure the brakes and sort out the starter Then it has to be sold
This might help:
P4 Rover Parts: Barrel & 2 Keys for Ignition Switch 59 on, P4 Switches Relays Solenoids Fuse Box, 59895
It should be a link to ignition barrel and keys: 1959 I'm presuming means 1960-onwards models (introduced Sept 1959) with the key-start ignition. A quick phone would clear that up.
If it's one of the very first 95s or 110s, ie in the first couple of months production in late 1962 it will have (or would originally have had) aluminium doors, bootlid and bonnet, after that they changed to steel.
Lovely cars, good luck.
P4 Rover Parts: Barrel & 2 Keys for Ignition Switch 59 on, P4 Switches Relays Solenoids Fuse Box, 59895
It should be a link to ignition barrel and keys: 1959 I'm presuming means 1960-onwards models (introduced Sept 1959) with the key-start ignition. A quick phone would clear that up.
If it's one of the very first 95s or 110s, ie in the first couple of months production in late 1962 it will have (or would originally have had) aluminium doors, bootlid and bonnet, after that they changed to steel.
Lovely cars, good luck.
Just checked its a 1963 P4 110 and the panels are steel The ignition switch is only for ign on, I cant move it any more and I did spray some penetrating oil down it I cant understand why the switch is as it is If he stalled it meant he would have to open the bonnet and start it manually by the solenoid button Unless there is a hidden starter button somewhere As Ive said I have never seen a P4 so immaculate I think he kept it to polish He had another P2 which he averaged 39 miles a year in the last 12 years This P4 he has averaged 20 miles a month in the last 16 years That accounts for the superb condition His wife said if the did go a run then it was a pain when they got home as he would spend the rest of the day cleaning it Someone is going to get a show winner
Perhaps somebody has replaced the original switch with one from an earlier model, ie a 1-position one, although I find that hard to believe as I can't imagine the previous owner resorting to using the solenoid, or going to the trouble of fitting a separate starter button.
If the key no. is stamped on the barrel lock that would indicate an earlier one as the 95 & 110 models no longer had the number on the barrel lock for ign./boot, which previous models did, however, I've no idea whether replacement ones would have had numbers.
From memory, the original key numbers were on a plate affixed to the nearside A-post, which, if still there, might give you a little more info as to whether you have the correct keys/numbers, although, of course, lots of things might have happened over 60-years.
Eta: thinking about it, 95 & 110 might not have key number on the plate? Glovebox key should also open the boot: driver's door the ignition.
If the key no. is stamped on the barrel lock that would indicate an earlier one as the 95 & 110 models no longer had the number on the barrel lock for ign./boot, which previous models did, however, I've no idea whether replacement ones would have had numbers.
From memory, the original key numbers were on a plate affixed to the nearside A-post, which, if still there, might give you a little more info as to whether you have the correct keys/numbers, although, of course, lots of things might have happened over 60-years.
Eta: thinking about it, 95 & 110 might not have key number on the plate? Glovebox key should also open the boot: driver's door the ignition.
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roverp480
Active Member
There may be a curved cover plate over the aperture, held with 4 clips . Pics. from P4 Handbook & parts list
Derek
Attachments
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colnerov
Well-Known Member
Hi, Down the side at the end of the threads is a small brass pin, if you push that in you can withdraw the lock barrel, you need the key in it. Then insert it into the new switch, make sure the brass pin is aligned to go into the aforementioned hole. If you have it 180 degrees out it goes into a blind hole and can't be changed again without a load of faff.
Colin
When you say the instrument panel bulbs, are you after the warning lights?
As far as I recall the 110s had the 3-litre style speedo, so the indicator warning lights are at the base of the speedo, left and right, with main beam between them.
There are three larger main warning lights, in a triangle outline, between the two main dials, for choke-warning, oil pressure and ignition. I think choke is amber and top left; oil green and top right; ignition/charge is red and lower centre. Also a rectangular amber 'brake' handbrake and fluid level above the ignition light. I can't think of any others off the top of my head. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures.
As far as I recall the 110s had the 3-litre style speedo, so the indicator warning lights are at the base of the speedo, left and right, with main beam between them.
There are three larger main warning lights, in a triangle outline, between the two main dials, for choke-warning, oil pressure and ignition. I think choke is amber and top left; oil green and top right; ignition/charge is red and lower centre. Also a rectangular amber 'brake' handbrake and fluid level above the ignition light. I can't think of any others off the top of my head. Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures.
