My mean green hornet

Today I got on with dressing the welds flush. I have done a bit of shaping on the floorpan but have decided my dollys are not quite right for the job and am ordering a large toe type to finish it fully.

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The inner sill pressings are aimed at repairing what’s left of a car, not necessarily replacing the entire panel so there’s some extra bits that need doing. Edges bent over etc.
There’s also a cutout in the top for welding around the B post.
Since I’ve removed mine I’ve welded in a fill panel to continue the line.

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One last job of the day was to make another temporary brace bar for the driver side. I’ve tied them together with a crossbar too.

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Jim
 
As I mentioned before the jacking points are getting updated.
40x40mm box forming a T with a 3mm plate on the underside for location on ramp arms or quick floor jacking- I always use front or rear but the option will be there just to raise from one corner.
I’ve just deleted the through hole on the outer sill hinge panel for want of a better word

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Jim
 
You'll always have to have a trolley jack in the boot. Are you going to smooth the sill covers? ISTR a guy, Simon something, who built a turbo four cylinder P6 and had a thread here some time back who installed the rubber pads from a car lift on his modified sills. On my list of future mods.
 
mrtask said:
You'll always have to have a trolley jack in the boot.
Click to expand...

That's what Recovery membership is for ............
The only time I am going to be lugging around a spare and jack now is when I'm going to an unmissable event such as Goodwood or Silverstone etc.
 
Sill covers will indeed be smooth.
Yeah I know Simon online quite well, those rubber pads are MG ZF parts iirc. They’re still available but fairly expensive, I think around £15/20 each.
I’m much happier with steel spreader plates, the less holes in the sills the better IMO. It will be stronger and more rigid too. If it goes on a ramp the arms generally have rubber pads, as does my trolley jack, which weighs around 45kg incidentally..no that won’t be living in the boot :p
 
Break on through to the other side
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I’ve spent the best part of the afternoon drilling out spot welds and cutting and peeling back layers of horrible previous cover up welding.

Ooh what’s under here?
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Peekaboo!
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This side has a fair bit more work needed to the chassis rail area, and curved portions of the floorpan

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B post is all drilled out so will remove that in the morning and finish removing inner and outer sills fully

Jim
 
Haha that’s the plan :)

Yeah I think there’s a lot of P6s out there with very similar troubles hiding in that area. This side had quite a bit more chassis rail damage

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Nearly at the stage of getting the new panel ready for fitment this side.
Feels like a bit of a milestone cutting out all this old rubbish I’ve known about for so long

Jim
 
Gulp! This is certainly the most extensive base unit refurbishment I've yet seen anybody on here undertake, and by some stretch. I salute your enthusiasm and look forward immensely to seeing your good work progressing. Which I expect will not be a long wait! :D
 
Horses certainly not spared as much as possible, a blueprint for driving it lol.
Waiting for a delivery of cutting discs to make much more progress.
This is quite interesting though, and hadn’t noticed it until yesterday while the car was upside down.

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I think it has to either be from the factory where a jig for welding the front mounts attached, a bit too roughly in my car’s case. The other side has a dent in the same place..

Or perhaps it’s happened more recently while the shell was being blasted..

I’m leaning toward it being a factory mistake
 
I remember restoring my Mustang engine compartment to bare metal and there was a dent in the shock tower, I always thought this was odd, every other image I looked at did not have a dent in that place. So I filled it. The car was a very original car.
Years later I saw a car with the exact same dent, in exactly the same place.
I managed to figure out it was put there on the assembly line by a worker during the engine install. The engines were fitted with the trans bolted on and if the motor swung to one side as it was being thrown in, the cylinder head would clout the shock tower.

The time frame to get things done on a line is tight, so you never will know what damage or dinks etc could have happened, although that is a strange place for a hole.
 
cobraboy said:
GO Jim GO !!!!!!!

You will have a fantastic shell when lockdown eases.
Click to expand...

Quite :cool: although (with respect) I hope the lockdown eases somewhat before you get that shell finished. ;)

Cracking job, by the way. It makes the chunk taken out of 'BOP' seem a bit tame....

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Welding these front suspension reinforcement plates today.
Tube welded in first, epoxy sprayed in the cavity and back side of new plate.
New plate slid over tubing and tacked in place ready to be fully welded

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Jim
 
I hope you don't mind if I unashamedly steal this idea and use it on Pooh Bear. I have always though that the mounts could be a bit stronger with the abuse that I throw at the poor thing. 3mm CRS I take it? Looks to be about the size I would use.
 
I think they really do need reinforcing if using the car consistently hard, or on rough surfaces. There’s a guy from Vancouver who races on dirt and his car developed stress cracks around and above the mounts.
Making it more rigid for consistent suspension location is also the aim.

Of course, knock yourself out :D
3mm plate yes

I only tacked everything yesterday as I’m trying to save my 0.6 wire for the rest of the sheetmetal. I’ll swap back to 0.8 for finishing these, and perhaps try Tig’ing the join to sheetmetal

Here you’ll see I’ve substantially upgraded the rear mount too

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Jim
 
Last edited:
Blanked off the fuel sender hole for new tank installation. This may end up getting drilled for AN hose unions but for now is nice and sealed up

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