Bell crank bushes and front damper works

Hope that fixes your problem. Will you now inspect the swing arms you've removed to see if they are compromised?
 
I have a Magnaflux test kit, I have used it once and got inconclusive results, that is why I changed the arms. I thought that as the arms were the likely culprit I would swap them out.

I will indeed clean off the paint on the old arms and test them. I have visually inspected them and they look fine. I spent time looking again today and if the forward pointing section of the bell crank arm nods inward, and the steering is held tight then the top of the swivel pillar would move inward pivoting around the forward joint on the steering side arm. This would produce the symptoms I have of the rear of the road wheel going inward, and the front edge turning out.
The brace I fitted is therefore going to be under tension, and the forces will be pulling directly down the centre, in which case I think the design will be strong enough.
 
This is cool. Well done all! I've been away from the forum for a bit, so catching up now.... Saw a video referenced above but I can't see it. I like the idea of the extra link. Has anyone looked at the bulkhead to see if it could be stiffened?
 
I have managed to drive the car on 2 or 3 occasions now. The triangulation of the bell crank seems to cured the cars tendency to pull hard left on braking.
I therefore recommend this modification to anyone who has fitted wider rubber and is experiencing this problem.

Gargo made reference to the same problem in post #24, I wonder what size tyres he is using ?
 
Some experience here with the top link pivots. Many years ago had a TC, which had heavy-ish steering. Didnt really recognize that it was unusual until I drove another TC - much lighter. On asking around was told that if the bulkhead gets depressed this changes the castor and causes the issue. Solution was to fit shims behind the pivot mounts - how thick ? Suck it and see. First try with home made shims - dreadful - far too thick, absolutely zero self centering. IIRC in the end it only took a couple of mm to correct the problem. In those days I would never have considered going to an alignment shop to get some numbers for the front end. Bit surprised to see the castor is as low as it is - 1.5 +/- 0.5.
jp
 
Today I got around to fitting some grease nipples to the bell crank arms in order to provide lubrication to the nylon bushes. Didn't take very long and the grease came through ok.
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Testing for squeaks to come.
 
"Meeces to pieces, goddamn miserable Meeses!"
Hope that banishes the squeaks. Added to my ever-growing list of things to to!
 
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