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I have used a cover outdoors once, but it ended badly due to extensive mould occurring inside the car. Things to watch for - best fitted with 2 people, as dragging a cover over single handed can be a chore; get the lightest unit available; remove regularly to allow the interior to breathe and...

Check out this list...note layout due to printing from XL. The notes at the end are sometimes very relevant.

I suspect 3d scanning and printing would be cheapest way to recreate these. Friend who is very good with copying FG items reckoned it would be a lot of work to make them using conventional means.

Unlikely the cap , as usually some of the contacts would work. Rotor shorting to ground maybe. Check for wiring inside dizzy is isolated where it should be. Clean the rotor and inside the cap, and check the carbon brush in the cap centre is contacting the rotor.

Looking in at the engine, on your right side, below the cover that has the hose to the top of radiator is the sensor - points to the right. Single wire.

Doing a lot of work there, well done. Rubber seal under the heater is 369294, also used in Range Rover- available here - Foam Gasket - Heater Seal to Bulkhead (FF010551) for Range Rover 1970-85 The heater core is 2 pass type - indicated by input and output are at same end. If the end without...

You are very welcome - this is what we are here for, to help people keep these on the road, and what comes around, goes around.

Ron, I was confused initially, but finding that spring in another booster of the period reassured me. I never found one in a diagram of a Lockheed unit, but PBR documentation shows such a spring in their models, so now convinced.

Dont recall now - it was 30+ years ago now. Must have been something about it crabbing. A group of used to travel in convoy when we went exploring, changing lanes on freeways so we could keep each other in sight, and it would be easy to observe a car's tracking.

You mean 'yet to find a car ISN'T' ? Had S2 Disco once, where the fit of the wheels in the arches looked fine (ie symmetrical), but the wheelbases L-R measured different.....???

Good to know, thanks.

A bit of luck lately. Looked for ages for a windage tray, finally found one used on WINS! Then I found an SD1 oil pickup locally, complete with brace. Then I found the #4 main cap on my 3.9 block had a threaded hole for the brace bolt, which I hadnt noticed before. Had to drill the windage tray...

Locate the sensor on the engine. pull the wire and ground it to engine - gauge should now go full scale. If yes lead and gauge are good, sensor is bad. If no, lead or gauge is bad - dismount the instrument panel, there is a volatge stabilizer to give 10v to temp gauge and another - pushed onto 2...

Note that the oiling system is not symmetrical. The RHS oil gallery down the block supplies the RHS lifters and main bearings and rods, but the LHS gallery ONLY supplies that sides lifters. One mod suggested by Hammill is to drill feed holes to the 3 centre mains from the LHS gallery (not a...

Wish I had found this thread before I posted my query on the larger dia spring! At this age the booster has almost certainly been replaced/overhauled before, so the spring may have been added already if there was a change in the air valve kit parts. Recently bought kit did not include a new...

sdibbers said "If the air valve piston is fitted with two seals there is an unofficial mod to remove one of the seals to prevent brake hang on." Yes, useful, but WHICH ONE? Or doesnt it matter?

I got a set a couple of years ago. Thing to watch is that despite being copied off original factory parts they are slightly asymmetric.

Re Autocorrect - the man who invented it died recently - the funnel is tomato. For bleeding I use a Motive Power pressure bleeder - first step is connecto to master reservoir, pump to 10 psi, wait 10-15mins and check there is no pressure loss before adding any fluid.

Re this old booster I bought - it had around 1/2 pint of nasty looking fluid in the chamber - obviously going out for rebuild. Also , it had a short pipe on the output to connect to the T piece. Something to learn from one end - when you overtighten brake union tube nuts behind a flared end ...

Yes, we know that now, BUT why is it not shown in any of the diagrams, and NOBODY has reported seeing one until now? Note that I have reported the late air valve is noticeably stiffer than the original , which has the spring.

Mystery sort of solved. Got a late model booster - supposedly off last P6b imported to Oz, around 76, 77. It has a big dia soft spring in the air valve housing, slightly different from mine - a little conical . Surprising that nobody has seen these before.

With the spring fitted outboard of the diaphragm all seems in order, with the old diaphragm. Only possible test left is to reassemble without the spring....but why bother if its working? Found a diagram of the Delphi rebuild kit (LK1165) which does not show a spring in there, so mine seems to be...

I have a sensor in the top; thermostat is 83C, switch is at 89C. This is in an MX5 system, where the real gauge readings are 'Cold-normal-headgasket' because of suppression. When you have a temp gauge that reads true (rather than one that is suppressed to read normal most of the time) you can do...

I had a fuel problem, but I left the pipe running along the LHS of the block, and ran a length of heat resistant tubing (Firesleeve) over it, from the pump , along the block and over the bellhousing. solved several possible issues.

Re electric fans and switches - there are adaptors to fit switches in rad hoses available -...