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You can probably run a 12v supply to the coil when cranking by piggybacking a wire from the starter relay on the inner wing down to the coil. See which terminal on the relay powers up when you're cranking, and try that.

If it's a Rover box then position "2" will be SECOND gear only, but you'll still have FIRST in "D", so perfectly useable with the five position selector.

I would think that the new starter doesn't have a terminal for an unballasted supply to the coil when cranking, only the main 12v supply to the post, and the switched supply to the terminal. If you have the ballasted system you should be able to get the 12v supply to the coil using a relay.

Just use the five position selector, and adjust it so that you just lose position "1", you will still have first in "D", and if it's a Jag box you'll still have it in "2" as well.

If it was me I'd fit a Jag selector on the tunnel, and kill the two problem birds with one stone.

Just normal Lucar connectors. The problem you will have using the cortina column selector is that's a five position selector, not six as on the BW66, so you will lose position "1"

I hope that the bloke fitting the chandelier isn't called Del boy.......

That cr of 9.35 is SD1 so that probably fits with that type of thread

I'd say no problem. That's listed as for 3.5 high compression, which it isn't, high compression is 10.5:1, not9.35.

Yes it's possible, and pretty easy. There was another thread asking the same question very recently. The most important thing to change in addition to what you have mentioned, is the spigot bearing, and soak that in oil before you fit it, and check the running clearance.

:thumb:

ISTR JAG/Daimler XJ6 had that, and that's a nice looking lever.

There were various types of switches, some had Lucar terminals, others had the wires permanently fixed inside the switch, with multi plugs of different types on the end.

It's still difficult to tell, the terminals may be broken inside, or need male Lucar connectors on the end of the wires. The switches can be dismantled but best if you can avoid that.

It's just a button. When the throttle linkage and kickdown cable are correctly adjusted, when you use the kickdown function, you can feel something through the pedal.

I certainly do remember you. I hope it all goes well from now onwards. Head Gaskets can be bought as a single item.

The first pictures make it look like the gasket is way out, I'd be looking for another one, possibly from another supplier, as the original supplier's gaskets are probably all the same. I've used Gaskets for Classics without problems. When you do refit the head, coat the "O" ring with original...

I'll see what I can do.

My Dodge tow truck has Rover HRW switches in it, does that make it eligible for inclusion? And Cobraboy, I'm suffering some serious garage envy just now.

Try putting a picture of the switch on.

I'd agree. BW65/66 switches don't have that adjustment.

The fluid pressure port will only tell you the line pressure, it won't help diagnosing individual faults. Engaging gears with the wheels free to spin won't help you either, unless you can hold them on the brakes and do a stall test. And even then that won't tell you if you have a rear clutch...

The latch on the pillar can cause problems, but that's normally the door bouncing back and not closing fully, rather than coming open after it's been closed properly. The pillar latch can be modified.

And soak the spigot bush in oil overnight before you fit it