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FYI The December 2012 edition of the South African Vintage and Veteran Association magazine turned the spotlight on corrosion prevention in ally engine blocks and cylinder heads. One interesting point stressed the importance of earthing these components on account of there being a small...

A couple of Barry Cades that may prove useful to someone: 1. Gunson Carbalancer - after putting the vacuum seal unit into the carb mouth, give the carb a small blip. This will lift the little pointer to get a reading. The idling suction is sometimes/usually not enough to lift the pointer on...

OK I know these aren't on P6's but some members may have other classics where these carbs are present. Here's a wee fix that may come in handy: Symptom: Fuel leak from the base of the float chamber where the nylon fuel pipe departs. Cause: Failure of an amazingly rinky-dink seal on the nylon...

Unit: 2000 TC with generator/dynamo and thus a Lucas RB 340 regulator. Symptom: Red ignition light glow at all revs [with occasional extinguishing]. Approach: 1. Generator tested - delivers full voltage. 2. Generator brushes - near perfect. 3. Haul out the secret stash of spare used regulators...

Lining up the timing marks in the bell housing on a 4 cylinder is made easy by using a pry-bar on the starter ring gear. 1. Turn the engine until the timing marks just become visible in the inspection port. [Remove the spark plugs and turn the engine on the fan blades - wear garden gloves and...

Getting the screw plug back into the tensioner can be a bit of a fiddle due to limited access, lack of vision and the frustration that comes of trying to use a conventional socket - even if its greased. An easy way is to put a dab of grease on the plug to hold the lock tab/sealing washer on and...

I am reliably informed that these products are what Toyota use in production and that Toyota brand sealants sold and used by its dealers are the same products retailing at twice the price. 3 Bond Grey is the one to use - it will even make classic British motorcycles oil tight. It's not cheap...

Symptoms: 1. One carb was impossible to tune. 2. Abrupt loss of power on even modest acceleration. 3. Popping and backfiring through both carbs - but most evident in [1] above. 4. An even idling speed was impossible to attain. 5. Snapping open carb [1 above] caused a momentary burst of power...

Product: Mains electricity engine oil heater that is permanently attached to the engine sump. Refer company website for details: http://www.wolverineheater.com Operation: Sump base is cleaned and abraded as per fully comprehensive installation instructions. Product is then applied to the...

Product: Lone Wolf Brake Bleeding System 1 liter plastic bottle. Clear plastic tube with a rubber head that fits over the brake bleed nipple. The bottle is fitted with a screw top featuring a venturi tube, trigger and air hose attachment [akin to a spray gun in overall appearance]...

Hi The subject items are fairly deeply scored ["washboard ribbed" is a term that comes to mind in this regard] due to some wonderful PO evidently driving it with zero meat on the brake pads. The car has never been pinged for this on its 6 monthly roadworthy inspection in nearly 10 years of...

Hi The fan regulator on my '69 2000 TC only works on the slow speed setting. Short of pulling the dashboard comprehensively to pieces, what is best way to gain access to this control mechanism on the heater box? I've tried the obvious route via the driver's side bin port and the workshop and...

Hi Two questions for a 1969 unit: 1. Is it OK to fit an all-steel gasket to an engine that the workshop manual stipulates needs the later steel & asbestos? When purchased the car had a steel gasket fitted, this was subsequently changed to the composite item during a rebuild 6 years ago, and...