Recent content by mikecoombs

The actual movement outward from one turn of the lever is very small, barely detectable at the pad, the ratchet is very fine toothed and takes lots of lever turns just to turn once round and it drives a fine threaded screw so one full turn of the ratchet wheel only moves the piston about 1/16"...

The piston which pushes the pad should be held steady by the tab, which should sit on top of it (the pad) to stop the barrel spinning. The ratchet is very fine toothed as is the thread it drives on the inside of the piston. Best way to get the piston out to where it should be is to turn the...

Re oil cooler lines. The standard setup has the cooler in the radiator tank. Its just a pipe that goes into the cold side tank, up about three quarters of the way then back down again. Simple enough to braze in if your having a radiator made. Apart from cost that arrangement heats the oil up...

There should be four spades on the switch. Two are the inhibitor switch and two are the reversing lights. From memory they are rivetted on with brass rivets but I have in the past drilled the rivets out and replaced them with BA set screws and nuts (and new blades from electronics store). Best...

Paul, there was no issue with the fuel supply. issue was with the electrics - coil - This is an example of why we replace all the service items with new ones before trying to figure out the problem. If done one item at a time you will probably find the fault during the process otherwise you...

You could take the piston and bell off the top of the carb and look for fuel down the jet - and check for filth at the same time. be careful as the piston in the bell is spring loaded and the needle attached is precision ground to very very close tolerances so you don't want to drop it...

Does anyone out there have a workshop manual they are able to read? In it you will find the fuel flow figures under either the carburettor or fuel pump section. Probably the latter. If you could post the figures listed on here that would really help Duane out...Unfortunately all my P6 manuals...

Do you still have the old float bowl needles and seats? maybe check they are the same as the new ones...I've had trouble with replacements not flowing properly in the past. You could discount pump issues by running the return line fitting into a measuring beaker with the electric pump on but no...

There is a fair amount written about intake air flow. K&N actually made some induction systems where the power increased when the filter is on...Seems the filter dropped the pressure which cooled the charge and made the gas more dense, hence extra power. The Norton rotaries used a similar...

Good Idea to do a complete rear brake rebuild and clean while its out....Check the lines for plasticised brake fluid jelly too... I find the easiest way to bleed the standard setup is to use the ring end of a short ring open end spanner and run the tube over the top of the mounting bracket...

the coil lead is in series wth the tacho.

When you said jump start did you mean roll start? You might just be able to get that starter out without moving the exhaust. I can but mine is bespoke exhaust with four into two into one with the two centre ones crossed over on that side so there is more room...

There is a relatively recent series of posts on installing various sorts of PAS on here somewhere. I think someone was working on an electric system fitted under the dash. Rack and pinion will create more headaches than it solves. Primarily trying to find somewhere to bolt the rack without it...

The "hessian" is actually horse hair which gives the car that distinctive smell

Just reading through this again...I presume youhave brand new, never used before plugs leads distributor cap condensor and spark plugs. it's pointless doing anything until that is done. the difference in jet height means you haven't yet looked down the jets at the fuel level. You need to take...