Recent content by ampwhu

So after approx 11 hours over 2 days of stumbling around and crawling about under the car and chin-wagging to a couple of the neighbours, I have finally managed to get some brakes with a working handbrake. I did manage to miss out that small spring that sits on top of the handbrake...

I've extended the bleed screw out further away from the caliper to make bleeding easier. (Well that's the theory anyway). It's a brake connector piece with 3/8" thread's. Use a double ended male piece to fit to the caliper and put a bleed nipple on the end.i can now attach my suction pump...

This is the nearside caliper off the car. The clicker wheel/piston is seized solid. This will be why it wouldn't adjust the pads closer to the disc. There is also some "teeth" missing in around 3/4mm of area. Must have jammed up at some point?? Anyway, I've tried undoing it but it won't budge...

Thanks Harvey. I think your right. I've also noticed that the bolt thread in the end is a metric thread. M12 x 30mm and not 7/16" like the original one. I got given the camshaft with so other parts by someone who was clearing out their garage of parts they no longer needed.

I have a question regarding this subject. I have a new camshaft p/n ETC6849. Would it work in a 10.5.1 early engine? I can't find an answer on here.

The picture is of the caliper on the car already. I have rebuilt a spare pair I have that work correctly. I can just swap a spare one over for the non working one on the car. I think this is where the confusion here is.

If I hold the piston and move the handbrake lever, it doesn't move outward. That's where the issue is.

So this morning I've removed the driveshaft, disc and pads from the rear nearside to look at what's going on. Before this, I'd pulled the handbrake up it's full travel and the offside was halfway to its stop. The nearside (above) was at its stop on the rachet. So I think from Harvey's...

Little progress lately as I've been doing some work to my A35 Van for the warmer months ahead. The P6 is always simmering in the background. I have managed to rebuild both of the spare rear calipers I have though. So both are good to go, but I'm curious to see why the nearside caliper isn't...

I'm aware it doesn't have the float switch. I would fit your existing float switch to a new cap by modifying a new cap. Mine is 80mm dia.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293472967241?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EuVmPRkXQV2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=sd-ywgMVQPK&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY I'd drill out the centre to fit the float. I've done this before

That's an 80mm girling cap?

Completed Getting the spring in is a little tricky. I've worked the handbrake lever and the piston moves out slowly. Wind it back in and repeat. Once I'd worked out that the inner cup of the piston rotates anticlockwise as the rachet wheel turns, the rest is rather straightforward. However...

I purchased an 80mm cap off of eBay for £5 and modified it to fit my gunsons eezibleed. You only need to drill a hole in the centre of the cap. Think it's girling. I stopped using the kits to push the fluid through using a spare tyre. I find it so simple to use my pela pump. (Oil extractor)...

I've used Parker hydraulic hose which is used in my industry. 3/8" with a thin steel wall inside. It won't burst or collapse.